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Saturday, November 10, 2012

Confessions of a Freshman Farmer




Pre-med student becomes a small sustainable farmer: this is Tom Hart’s journey.  Some might find this to be a strange transition but Hart is a lover of food so it was perfectly natural for him.  Somewhere along the way, as an upperclassman in Boston, he began purchasing ingredients away from the conventional grocery stores.  He declared: “Everything just tasted so much better.”

Then he read it, Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma.  He said, “Whole Foods, my go-to place for groceries, was ruined for me.”  He realized then that he could make a real difference as a farmer and his vision for the future changed.  Tom Hart could be part of the change to America’s agriculture system. 

He embraced the ideas of Pollan, Wendell Berry, and farmers like Joel Salatin of Polyface Farm in Swoop, Virginia.  Hart envisioned creating a farm on the North Fork of Long Island, similar to Polyface, one that works on a rotation system of ecological and sustainable practices. 

A “Whole Farm” or “Mixed Farm” concept is one where land plots are used both for a variety of produce and for the livestock.  The land is able to gain benefit from the diversity instead of being drained of nutrients; the theory is that this leads to a better final farm product with less ecological impact. 

After leaving thoughts of medical school behind, Hart sought apprenticeship opportunities so he could work towards making his dream into a reality.  These foundational apprenticeships included two small sustainable and certified organic farms. Biophilia Farm, where he learned about growing seasons and practices on their 14-acre produce farm, and Browder’s Birds raising pastured meat and egg chickens through the lifecycle from chicks to market

Tom Hart founded deep Roots Farm in the spring of 2012.  He has been able to create a farm of diversity in the very first season. Along with heirloom-variety vegetables grown with sustainable eco agriculture, they are also raising a good variety of pastured animals.  Tamworth hogs, broiler meat chickens, egg layers, and broad-breasted turkeys are in the plot rotation at the farm.

Hart’s farm is not organic at this point, but he talked about transitioning his leased fields to become certified by NOFA (Northeast Organic Farming Association).  He does not anticipate seeking the same certifications for the livestock however.  He said, “While I do feed the animals organic feed, I also feed them byproducts from the local brewery and vegetables that are donated from a conventional farm neighbor.  It is more important to me to use this local waste for a good purpose.”

So, what did Tom Hart learn in his first year of farming his own operation?  “I learned how helpful people are; there was always someone around to lend a hand on processing days. Everyone has been great,” he said.  He also learned some logistical lessons about being more diligent with cover crops, and how weeds can really just take over so very quickly.  He learned that the equipment he started the season off with is going to need a tiller upgrade; he was so sure that his tractor was all set up.   

Hart said, “One of the things that surprised me the most was how much gasoline I used just going back and forth from home to the farm and to market, I really underestimated that.”   

What will be new for Deep Roots next year?  Well, a more efficient run-around car for starters to save on the gasoline budget.  Hart also mentioned re-thinking some of this selling outlets next year due to limited manpower.  He said, “I don’t think I will be able to afford to hire someone, so something might have to go.” He is working on his 2013 crop plan now and he feels like he learned a lot about what was growing best on his land and what was farmer-friendly for harvesting and storage longevity.

It is important to Hart that he not be labeled as a livestock farmer alone, which has been a tendency of late.  The raising of animals for food is quite unique in his area and the media has been very interested in a new wave of locavore meat producers.  Hart said, “I don’t want to be known as only a chicken farmer, what I have is a small diverse farm: animals and vegetables”

Tom Hart and his Deep Roots Farm goods can be found in-season at Greenport and Kings Park Farmers Markets.  You can also visit his facebook page for more information: www.facebook.com/deeprootsli.                                                

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